Summer Cruising in Maine Part Two

It was still foggy when we arrived in Northeast Harbor where we pulled up to the Clifton Docks for fuel and water. After filling the tanks we called the harbormaster and were lucky enough to get the last available mooring for the night. Since it was so foggy we think that most everyone decided to stay put so very few moorings opened up. The next morning it was such a beautiful day that we decided to hike over to the Jordan Pond Teahouse for popovers and raspberry lemonade.  Popovers are a must when visiting the Teahouse.

Randy on the trail to Jordan Pond

 After a leisurely lunch we boarded the Island Explorer bus for a ride back to the landing in Northeast Harbor. The free bus service has a number of routes that provide transportation all over Mount Desert Island. After two nights we left for Somesville at the head of Somes Sound where we anchored and had a nice walk ashore. In 1761 Abraham Somes landed near the spot in the photo below and founded the first permanent settlement on the island. 

Somesville Harbor

View from the museum in Somesville

Window box on the museum

The next morning we thought it was time for another hike so we caught the bus to the trailhead of St. Sauveur and Acadia Mountains. We had a perfect day and brought a lunch with us as it takes a few hours to complete the hike. There are many beautiful vistas as one traverses the two mountains.

On Top Of Acadia Mountain looking out Somes Sound

We left Somesville and had a day of decent sailing to the next stop of Holbrook Harbor near Castine. As we pulled into the anchorage we saw a familiar boat in the harbor; our friends, Howard and Debbie were there on Salty Goose with their dog Brownie. We had a nice visit and made plans to meet up again for lunch in Castine the next day.  That evening we were treated to a wonderful sunset.

Holbrook Harbor Sunset

  After lunch with the Salty Goose crew the following day, we took a longer trek to the lighthouse and explored some of the historical sites and the Campus of Maine Maritime Academy where our nephew Alex went to school.

As it was nearing the time to get back to Freeport, we started to make our way south through Penobscot Bay.

Boats at anchor in Pulpit Harbor

We  were fortunate enough to meet up with fellow Rockland Yacht Club members when we anchored in Pulpit Harbor, North Haven. We had a tour of Snowy Owl, a Sabre 402 made here in Maine, that Don and Jody recently purchased and are outfitting for some extended cruising.  Later, we gathered on Altair for sundowners, hors d'oeuvres and visiting with friends.   Yet another sunny day greeted us in the morning so our folding bikes came out  for a tour of North Haven. We stopped  at the grocery store and the oyster farm for some of their deliciously briny oysters. When we arrived back in the harbor, the wind was up so  we set sail for Long Cove at Tenants Harbor, where we anchored for the night.

Birds abound on the water, and we were fortunate enough to see puffins,  gannets of all ages, herons, ospreys, eagles, guillemots, eider ducks, terns and the ubiquitous gull.  Not a single song bird made a landing on the boat on this trip.  The wind cooperated with us as we sailed Emme to Linekin Bay.  Of course, the closer you get to your destination, the stronger the wind becomes.  After settling into our anchorage, we decided to have dinner at the Linekin Bay Resort.  Our meal of mussels with fennel, scallops over greens and potatoes was delicious.  Our waiter was from Turkey and his assistant and sailing coach was from Ireland.  Apparently, the resort hires Europeans to help staff for the summer.  Thanks to Kaan, we have a list of places to visit when and if we make it to Istanbul.

Unbelievably the sun was shining and the wind was up from the north as we left Linekin Bay and made our run down to  Quahog Bay, where our friends Nancy and Otey live.  They were kind enough to invite us to dinner at their beautiful waterfront home, where the barbeque doesn't quit and the cookies have huge chunks of chocolate to satisfy the cravings of chocolate lovers.  We savored the ambience of the bay in the early morning and then made our way back to our home port of  South Freeport without much assist from the wind but with favorable current the whole way. 

Summer cruising in Maine

Sunset at Carvers Cove Fox Islands Thorofare 

We set sail on our summer cruise on August 3 and made our way to Linekin Bay.  Met up with friends on Aqua Mirus who we knew from Charleston, SC.  Helen and John hail from NH but have retired and now live aboard.  The following day, we sailed by Eastern Egg Rock and saw at least a dozen puffins flying and swimming in the water.  We were on our way to our next anchorage at Dix and High Islands along Mussel Ridge Channel.  We arrived just before the thunderstorms and in time to make our way over to Aqua Mirus.  As we were visiting, Riley of Mainestay.com, showed up in the rain offering here wares.  She had homemade everything to offer, so we bought freshly dug and steamed steamers, cheddar and chive biscuits, couscous Italian salad and strawberry rhubarb pie.  It was almost too good to be true.  After dinner we enjoyed a walk and colorful sunset on Birch Island.

We sailed into Rockland for fuel and then made our way to Carver's Cove along the Fox Island Thorofare where we enjoyed yet another beautiful evening.  Here we heard taps played as the flag was lowered and the Star Spangled Banner as it was raised in the morning.

Swimming Quarry on Swans Island

Swans Island was our next destination as we had tickets for 2 nights of the Sweet Chariot Music and Art festival.  Our friends Susan and Stephen Leighton met us there after driving from the county and taking the ferry from Bass Harbor.  We were graced with yet another fine summer day so went ashore and found the swimming hole to refresh our bodies and souls.  The water in the quarry was so clear that you could see your feet while treading water.

The music was outstanding as usual. We always promise ourselves another year after hearing those great musicians.  The intense rain storm with wind kept us there an extra day.   

The view from the rocks above the quarry

We sailed under sunny warm skies to Somes Sound via the outside route around Great Duck Island.  The view was as clear as glass as we sailed up the sound among the mansions and valley cove.  We had dinner at Abel's Restaurant as we were all in the mood for lobster.  They serve it up in several different dishes without the shell.  

Come morning, the weather gods were still with us as we sailed over to Frenchman's Bay around Bar Harbor and past Sorrento to Hancock Point.  It was there that Kevin picked us up and had us over to their home in Hancock for the afternoon.  Kevin and Mary are friends that we know from the county and have lived in this area for a number of years.

Sailing from Hancock through the bay among the Porcupine islands with the Acadia mountains in the background may be one of the most beautiful sails around.  Frenchboro on Long Island was calling to us as we headed back out to sea.  We arrived just in time to pick up one of the last moorings available for the night. After a refreshing hike around some of the Maine Heritage trails, that are so beautifully maintained, we walked the hill up to Lunt's lobster dock.  It was the Leightons last night on board so we had a feast of lobster with the usual trimmings.  

The morning brought fog and plenty of it. Emme crept her way over to Swans Island where we dropped the Leightons off and we spent another night due to the weather. 

  

Lighthouse entering Burnt Coat Harbor

Looking in the Western Way Mount Desert Island

Big Beach on Long Island

Frenchboro Harbor Long Island

We are now in Northeast Harbor after a foggy sail from Burnt Coat Harbor.  Emme was filled with fuel and water and we got the last mooring available here.  By about 5 PM the fog lifted and the starry skies became visible again after sunset. We will spend a couple of days here to do some hiking.